Trade Blanket Coat
Plains Trade Blanket Coat, ca. late 1800s. On view at MONAH.
The regal and ornately decorated trade coat pictured here is attributed to a well-known figure in indigenous history: Chief Sitting Bull! This fantastic addition to our collection tells a fascinating narrative on the history of trade blankets and their continued importance to Native American cultures and traditions.
While trade blankets are not inherently an indigenous item, they are closely associated with Native American traditions and identity. Long before European contact, Native American tribes used and wore coats made from organic materials such as plants, hides, and furs. The functionality of these coats was broad and would be used for warmth, trade, shelter, and adornment. [1] However, during the 18th and 19th centuries, materials such as wool and cotton were introduced to Native Americans by European settlers and the long tradition of wearable coats and blankets began to change.
Trading companies began to produce woolen trade blankets specifically for their Native American consumers. [2] The Hudson Bay Company was the first European-based company to import their woolen blankets from England. These first blankets were simple in design, typically with a single color and a few contrasting stripes. [3] In 1886, Pendleton Woolen Mills was established and became the first company to specifically produce trade blankets. Their blankets became well known for their intricate designs and color palettes and became highly sought after by indigenous peoples in the Northeast and Northern plains. [4] By the 19th century, most Native Americans had been relocated to reservations and Indian trading posts became centers for trading resources such as clothing, jewelry, and of course, blankets. [5] So, why are trade blankets such an integral part of indigenous life, traditions, and culture?
Trade blankets are often used as commemorative gifts for special events or important milestones and Pendleton blankets are among the most prized gifts one can receive. When given as a gift, trade blankets are seen as a gesture of friendship, respect, and gratitude. [6] Beautiful and functional, trade blankets also reflect the critical role that clothing and costume play in indigenous ceremonial life and traditions. Blankets such as these would be worn and used by important tribesmen and tribeswomen during powwows and ceremonial singing and dancing. [7]
The trade blanket attributed to Chief Sitting Bull was given as a gift from Sitting Bull to the wife of Lieutenant Johnson. Lieutenant Johnson had the charge of the indigenous person who was quartered with Sitting Bull in the Freedmen’s hospital (now known as Howard University Hospital) in Washington D.C. The various pendants and decorative motifs featured on this trade blanket reflect its owner’s high social status and importance within the community. This coat was tailored from a trade blanket and cut in the manner of an overcoat. Blanket strips were used as decorative trim at the cuffs and shoulders, along with a variety of buttons and silk for accents.
Blog by Kate Hodgson
References:
“The Collector’s Guide: Indian Trade Blankets.” THE COLLECTOR'S GUIDE, www.collectorsguide.com/fa/fa026.shtml.
“Hudson Bay Blankets - Point Blankets - A Brief History.” Crazy Crow Trading Post, 3 May 2021, www.crazycrow.com/site/blanket-capote-history/.
“The Rise of Pendleton Woolen Mills as the Primary Trade Blanket of Contemporary Native Americans.” Crazy Crow Trading Post, 18 Mar. 2020, www.crazycrow.com/site/rise-of-pendleton-trade-blankets/.